A few pictures I took whilst changing seals on the injectors. Back

rail removed Firstly, before doing this, make sure you've got the correct replacement seals handy; I imagine it's easy enough to upset something and get an unwanted air-leak (if you didn't already have one). This picture shows the fuel-rail having been simply pulled from the retainers. Note that you DO NOT have to remove the fuel-lines to do this job. I only did this as I was changing the rubber hoses supplying fuel to each injector as they looked cracked, ancient and possibly a fire hazard. To remove the injectors, untwist the locking collar on each anti-clockwise until you feel it go loose. Gently pull the whole rail as one piece. No real force should be necessary to do this. Be careful now so not to allow any crap into the intake ports. I used clean cloth to cover them as required.
Dirty retainers Dirty retainers It is sensible choice to try and not to get dirt into either end of the injectors; I treated them with respect in that I don't much like the price of new ones. The close-up pictures to the left are of the retainers. Due to the slots in the side of them they seem to get a fair amount of dust and grime inside them. The hole into the chamber was also caked in black old seal residue etc. Can't quite remember but there may be two left-hand and two right-hand retainers.
O-ring seat, clean To remove the retainers it's a single imperial size Allen key wrench on each retainer. These need to be removed to replace the O-ring which sits in a circular groove beneath on the head surface. I took one at a time, cleaned it, removed the O-ring, cleaned where it had been, replaced the O-ring (being careful to make sure it was seated properly), added a 'resilient' washer for the Allen bolt and reassembled. The picture left is taken after I cleaned it up. Again, careful not to allow anything to drop into the chamber when cleaning. There seemed to be loads of old ´under-hood´ noise-dampening foam stuff knocking around which may have not been good for the chamber should it have dropped in. The picture also shows the main earthing connection for the D-Jet harness.
Removing cup fitting The injectors (if they haven't been changed before) should come with a short rubber section of fuel-line. The ones I had were attached to the brass(?) fuel-rail with pipe clips, the standard screw type. The attachment to the injector body was the original cup press-fit washer thing. To replace the rubber hose you have to remove the cup fitting. After seeking advice I went with the method that seemed best here. I got myself a new (and therefore extremely sharp) blade on a scalpel. Holding the injector in one hand I cut a straight line in the hose, up to the cup fitting making sure to cut as much of the rubber hose crimped under the cup fitting. Once the rubber has loosened, a process involving a certain amount of wiggly and tugging, the cup fitting suddenly loosens up and the falls off along with the old fuel-hose. This now bares the short metal fuel-inlet to the injector.
Seals and bits replaced The pictures here to the right and left are of all the seals, old hose-line, pipe-clips and cup fittings I collected from all four injectors. There are two rubber seals on each injector, one large and one small. There is also a metal washer which sits above the large washer and against the locking collar. These large, thin washers were partially rusted on each of my injectors. Replacements I don't know where to get, so I sanded them off to remove the rust, and replaced them. Replacing the seals is them the main job. The small seals which sit on the tips are esay enough. The large seals proved to be complete pigs. After working out which is the actual seal (they were hard as metal, they could as well have been) and trying to prise them free with a screw-driver (risking damaging the thin metal washer)
Bakerlite seals! I eventually resorted to the use of a very small cutting blade on the end of Dremel power tool. This worked great so long as you are careful not to knick the metal body of the injector. I was aware of the fact that the dry dust created from the cut rubber could get in side the injector so attempted to avoid that with sticky-tape over the inlet and my thumb over the nozzle. Once the large washer is `cracked´ off the new one can be replaced into the recess. The pieces of the removed large washers shown in the pictures are due to them being more like bakerlite than rubber. I guess these had never been replaced before.
Injectors, worse for wear Two photos showing the close-ups of the injectors as found when first removed. One of the seals on one of the tips is deformed and wouldn't have been doing much good for its integrity. I refitted all the newly sealed injectors to their new fuel-hose and then to the fuel-rail. I replaced the same length of fuel-line as I had removed but there was still a little adjustment needed in bending the injectors back into their retainers. This was proably due to the new fuel-line having come from a length that was rolled-up and even over the short length still tended to bend rather than sit straight.
Injectors, worse for wear All in all this isn't that difficult a procedure and just takes a little confidence. It's also a good opportunity to clean up those inaccessible places where `stuff´ gets trapped on the top of the engine. The photo to the right shows the fuel-rail replaced and the D-Jet harness reconnected. I'm not convinced that I noticed the difference to the engine performance after the operation but it is one less thing to point fingers at when dealing with D-Jetronic EFI problems. You hope anyway. Fuel-rail replaced